COBOL devs are a specialized niche these days and they get paid accordingly.
I can learn COBOL from a book in general terms, but where would I practice with real-world legacy COBOL systems?
It's not as though I can do a COBOL side-project to learn... or can I?
How does one go about learning COBOL in 2022 (from "scratch", while already being a working dev) in order to niche down as a COBOL specialist dev?
In my experience the well paid COBOL devs are those with 20+ years of experience, often in one specific system, often bumped by being re-hired a bunch of times for the same position. I've been doing COBOL since 2018 and younger devs my age (late 20s, early 30s) with a few years of experience make decent money, but the average is bumped by the teams having a lot of devs near retirement age.
If you want to learn:
The language isn't very complicated. I'd recommend grabbing the Visual Cobol for Windows trial just to get coding (and then shunning anything MicroFocus when you are done ;) ) https://www.microfocus.com/en-us/products/visual-cobol/overv...
If you want to/will end up tinkering with IBM systems, check out Jan Sądek's Mainframe Playground: https://mainframeplayground.neocities.org/
For running COBOL on VMS, comp.os.vms is a common place to hang out https://groups.google.com/g/comp.os.vms?pli=1 A dev named Remy documented his first steps on OpenVMS and it was a great help when starting out: https://raymii.org/s/tags/vms.html
There is some actual training material from firms specializing in COBOL training floating around, but they are mostly IBM and/or MicroFocus documentation with some suggested example programs.
I hope the resources above are useful and good luck!